China’s Long and Winding Road
Friday, September 17th, 2010Download this podcast
Length – 5:15
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For those who live or travel regularly to Shanghai, you have been the victim of the city’s wild abandon to prepare for the World Expo – new roads, bridges, tunnels, metro lines, bus lines, bike lanes, stoplights, security cameras … the list of infrastructure and hardware upgrades goes on and on. Well, now that the Expo is finally here, many of us have been able to take advantage of that infrastructure … I, for one, am quite pleased with the new subway lines, making it much more convenient to get around the city. However, the 9 squillion visitors a day to the Expo mean that there are just more people riding the subways and driving on the roads so a bit of the allure has rubbed off.
But all of these so-called improvements remind me of an old joke: a city slicker is lost in the countryside; eventually, he happens upon a local walking along the dirt road. The guy asks for directions back to the city and the local makes several unsuccessful attempts to explain the route. Finally, the local gives up and says to the city slicker: “Well, I guess you can’t get there from here.”
Needless to add, the point of this little jest is that there is always a way to get from point A to point B.
But not necessarily so in China. We may be all-too-familiar with the Confucian saying: “A journey of a thousand li begins with a single step.” Which is good advice (provided you know what the heck a li is), but it omits a crucial precondition. There first must be a road to walk on. Put another way, you may know your destination, but finding the path to get there is a whole ‘nuther matter.
Case in point: The Shanghai Pudong airport opened to much fanfare in 1999. Its size, capacity and architectural splendor was (and still is) truly world class. Anyone that calls Shanghai home can be proud of it … and even more so since they completed Terminal 2. What’s more, it was built in record time. However, the highway to the airport took a lot longer to complete. For the first year or two one had to pass through an obstacle course called Pudong, dodging pre-modern horse carts on the way to the post-modern airport. So while the destination was ready and waiting, there wasn’t a decent road to reach it.
Excepting the Maglev train, of course. Another marvelous example of modernity, which, unfortunately, had its own destination issues. True, on arrival at the airport the train seemed a welcome alternative to the long taxi line; one could whizz along at speeds of more than 400 km per hour all the way to Jinqiao, where … you waited in another long line for a taxi to get you home! Now don’t start writing me nasty letters. I am aware that the Maglev has since been connected to the #2 subway line and that getting to downtown from Pudong airport is now a breeze. But note the year: this happened in 2006, roughly six years after the airport opened.
The drive to modernize has had similar results in other areas. In keeping with the WTO provisions, China is opening up new forms of investment for foreign companies, though the process is frustratingly familiar.
Step One: The new rules are announced with much fanfare and praise from global punditry.
Step Two: One year later, the application procedures are announced, again with much fanfare and more punditing from the pundits;
Step Three: One year after that, applications are actually accepted by the government, with very little fanfare (by now the pundits have moved on to touting new developments, see Step One).
As I was saying, this process causes foreigners much rending of hair. Which in my case, I cannot afford because I cannot find my hair. For those of us that value convenience, efficiency and modernity, new forms of investment are useless unless we have means to access them. Most foreigners (particularly Americans) have acquired the detritus of efficiency: daily planners, PDAs, alarm clocks, etc., all of which calculate time to the nanosecond. As such, a beautiful airport, or a beautiful new business opportunity, are anathema — without a means to reach them.
But before we get too huffy, keep in mind that we were warned of the dangers. Way back in the early 90s, Deng Xiaoping said that development in China would be “like crossing the river by feeling for stones.”
Today, we are standing on the banks of the rushing river we call Chinese Development looking across to the land of riches and eternal happiness on the other side. There are a couple of stones peeking out from the rushing rapids, but they look a bit slippery. So we need to tread carefully. Better still, we should watch while someone else crosses the river before us, to see where he steps. One day, there will be a solid bridge to cross, but in the meantime, many will fall in the water and be swept away.
Be that as it may, it’s silly to think that China should build roads (or bridges) for the convenience of foreigners. Like I said, no one made us any promises and if the existing road takes it toll on you, well, it tolls for all of us. In the meantime, buy a compass and a pair of hip-waders.
